Crop Rotation Planning

Dayboro 12-Month Crop Planner

Plan your Dayboro garden year-round with our 12-month crop planner — local climate data, not generic advice

Growing vegetables in the Dayboro valley isn't like gardening in suburban Brisbane. We sit at 130 metres elevation in the D'Aguilar Range foothills, with cold air drainage in winter and scorching summers that can push 40°C. This crop planner uses local planting windows based on our microclimate — not the generic "Southeast Queensland" calendars you find in gardening books. Twenty-seven crops, twelve months, and the crop rotation logic to keep your soil healthy season after season.

The free tier shows you what to plant right now, a colour-coded 12-month calendar, and seasonal summaries. Members get the full interactive planner: select crops and see Gantt-style timelines, crop rotation advisories with family conflict warnings, succession planting schedules, monthly task calendars, and bed allocation plans. All based on Dayboro-specific growing conditions.

12-Month Crop Planner

What to plant, when to plant it, and how to rotate — for the Dayboro microclimate

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12-Month Planting Calendar

Seasonal Summary

Disclaimer: Planting windows are based on the Dayboro microclimate (130m elevation, D'Aguilar Range foothills, subtropical with cold air drainage). Your specific property's conditions — aspect, elevation, soil type, frost exposure — will affect optimal planting times. Days to harvest are approximate averages; actual times depend on variety, soil health, and seasonal conditions. This planner is a guide, not a guarantee.
Data from Dayboro.au — local growing data for the D'Aguilar Range hinterland

Planning Your Dayboro Garden Year-Round

The Dayboro valley has a genuine subtropical climate with a twist: winter cold air drainage means our overnight minimums can drop well below what Brisbane gardeners experience. That creates a clear divide between warm-season crops (September to March) and cool-season crops (March to September), with a frost-risk window from May to September that rules out tender plants unless you've got protection.

The practical upside is that we can grow something productive every single month of the year. While suburban Brisbane gardeners struggle with summer heat but enjoy mild winters, we get the same summer growing conditions plus a proper cool season that brassicas, root vegetables, and leafy greens absolutely love. Garlic planted in March produces fat, flavourful bulbs that supermarket garlic can't touch.

The two-season approach: Most successful Dayboro gardeners plan around two main planting seasons. Warm-season crops go in from September/October (after the last frost-risk nights) and run through to March/April. Cool-season crops take over from February/March and grow through to August/September. A handful of tough plants — parsley, silverbeet — grow year-round regardless.

Crop Rotation for Subtropical Gardens

Crop rotation isn't just for broadacre farms. Even in a backyard with four raised beds, rotating plant families through different beds each season prevents soil-borne disease buildup, manages soil nutrients, and breaks pest cycles. The principle is simple: don't plant the same family in the same spot two seasons in a row.

The seven main families in a Dayboro vegetable garden, and why rotation matters:

Solanaceae (Nightshades): Tomato, Potato, Capsicum, Eggplant

Heavy feeders that are susceptible to soil-borne diseases like bacterial wilt and fusarium. Follow nightshades with legumes to replenish nitrogen. Never plant tomatoes where potatoes grew last season (or vice versa) — they share the same pathogens.

Brassicaceae (Brassicas): Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, Radish

Prone to clubroot, which persists in soil for years. Rotate away from brassicas for at least two seasons. Follow with legumes or alliums. In Dayboro's humid summer, brassica diseases can build up fast if you don't rotate.

Cucurbitaceae (Cucurbits): Cucumber, Zucchini, Pumpkin

Susceptible to powdery mildew and downy mildew, both of which love our humid conditions. Don't follow cucurbits with cucurbits. They're heavy feeders that benefit from following legumes.

Fabaceae (Legumes): Beans, Peas

The nitrogen fixers. Legumes take atmospheric nitrogen and convert it into plant-available form in the soil via root nodules. Plant legumes before heavy feeders (nightshades, cucurbits, brassicas) to naturally boost soil fertility. They're the cornerstone of any rotation plan.

Apiaceae (Umbellifers): Carrot, Parsley, Celery, Coriander

Moderate feeders. Susceptible to root-knot nematodes in our warm soils. Follow with a brassica crop, as brassica root exudates have natural biofumigant properties that suppress nematode populations.

Amaryllidaceae (Alliums): Onion, Garlic

Natural pest deterrents. Allium root compounds discourage many soil pests, making them excellent to plant before or alongside susceptible crops. Follow nightshades with alliums to clean up the soil.

Amaranthaceae (Amaranths): Spinach, Silverbeet, Beetroot

Moderate feeders. Generally trouble-free in rotation. Good gap fillers between heavy feeders and can be succession-planted for continuous harvests.

Warm Season vs Cool Season Planting in the D'Aguilar Range

Crop Season Planting Months Days to Harvest Family
TomatoWarmSep–Feb~75Solanaceae
LettuceCoolMar–Sep~52Asteraceae
CarrotCoolFeb–Sep~75Apiaceae
BroccoliCoolFeb–Aug~85Brassicaceae
BeansWarmSep–Apr~60Fabaceae
PotatoCoolFeb–Apr, Jul–Sep~105Solanaceae
CucumberWarmSep–Feb~60Cucurbitaceae
SpinachCoolMar–Sep~45Amaranthaceae
CapsicumWarmSep–Jan~75Solanaceae
ZucchiniWarmSep–Mar~52Cucurbitaceae
BasilWarmSep–Mar~37Lamiaceae
ParsleyAll yearJan–Dec~80Apiaceae
KaleCoolFeb–Sep~65Brassicaceae
CabbageCoolFeb–Aug~85Brassicaceae
PumpkinWarmSep–Feb~102Cucurbitaceae
CornWarmSep–Feb~75Poaceae
OnionCoolMar–Jul~120Amaryllidaceae
GarlicCoolMar–May~180Amaryllidaceae
PeasCoolMar–Aug~62Fabaceae
RadishCoolFeb–Oct~30Brassicaceae
SilverbeetAll yearJan–Dec~57Amaranthaceae
BeetrootCoolFeb–Oct~62Amaranthaceae
EggplantWarmSep–Jan~75Solanaceae
Sweet PotatoWarmSep–Feb~120Convolvulaceae
StrawberryCoolMar–Jun~75Rosaceae
CeleryCoolFeb–Aug~100Apiaceae
CorianderCoolMar–Sep~37Apiaceae

Monthly Planting Guide for Dayboro

Month Plant Notes
JanuaryCapsicum, Basil, Beans, Parsley, SilverbeetPeak summer heat. Water deeply. Mulch everything.
FebruaryTomato (last chance), Carrot, Kale, Radish, Beetroot, CeleryTransition month. Start cool-season seedlings in trays.
MarchLettuce, Spinach, Broccoli, Peas, Garlic, Onion, StrawberryCool season begins. Get brassicas in early.
AprilLettuce, Spinach, Broccoli, Cabbage, Peas, Garlic, OnionIdeal planting weather. Soil still warm, air cooling.
MayLettuce, Spinach, Kale, Cabbage, Peas, Garlic, CorianderFrost risk begins late May. Protect tender seedlings.
JuneLettuce, Spinach, Kale, Peas, Coriander, StrawberryShort days, slow growth. Frost cloth on cold nights.
JulyPotato, Lettuce, Spinach, Kale, Onion, PeasPeak cold. Great for potatoes and leafy greens.
AugustPotato, Carrot, Broccoli, Kale, Radish, CorianderSpring approaching. Start warm-season seedlings indoors.
SeptemberTomato, Beans, Cucumber, Capsicum, Zucchini, Corn, PumpkinWarm season starts. Wait for last frost risk to pass.
OctoberTomato, Beans, Cucumber, Capsicum, Zucchini, Eggplant, BasilPrime planting month. Everything grows fast.
NovemberTomato, Beans, Cucumber, Zucchini, Corn, Sweet PotatoHeat increasing. Water consistently.
DecemberTomato, Beans, Cucumber, Zucchini, Basil, Sweet PotatoSummer heat. Shade cloth for sensitive crops.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I start my warm-season crops in Dayboro?
September is the traditional start, but keep an eye on the frost calculator. The last frost-risk nights in the Dayboro valley can extend to mid-September. If you're keen to get an early start, raise seedlings indoors from August and transplant in late September once night temperatures are consistently above 10°C.
How many beds do I need for proper crop rotation?
A minimum of four beds allows a basic four-year rotation: legumes → nightshades → brassicas → root vegetables/alliums. More beds give you greater flexibility. Even three beds work if you group compatible families. The bed allocation planner (for members) generates rotation plans for 3 to 12 beds.
Can I grow tomatoes year-round in Dayboro?
Not without significant protection. Tomatoes need night temperatures above 10°C to set fruit and will die if exposed to frost. From May to September, you'd need a heated greenhouse or a very sheltered position against a north-facing wall with frost cloth on cold nights. Most Dayboro gardeners treat tomatoes as a September-to-April crop and switch to cool-season crops for winter.
What's the benefit of succession planting?
Instead of planting 20 lettuce at once and having them all bolt at the same time, succession planting means sowing a small batch every 2–3 weeks throughout the growing season. You get a steady supply of fresh produce instead of feast-then-famine. Fast crops like lettuce, radish, and coriander are ideal candidates. The succession planner (for members) calculates optimal intervals for each crop.
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